20 September 2024

In the heart of Bangkok, where gleaming skyscrapers contrast with centuries-old temples, lies a lesser-known facet of the city’s cultural history – its historic mosques.

For those intrigued by Thai-Muslim folklore, such as the enigmatic Muslim talismans featured in the provocative film “The Cursed Land” with Ananda Everingham, a tour of Bangkok’s mosques unveils a fascinating layer of the city’s heritage.

These sacred spaces, far from being just places of worship, are vibrant reflections of Bangkok’s rich and diverse history, showcasing architectural splendours and age-old traditions.

Drawing inspiration from the TAT’s “Mosque Tours” guide, here are five of Bangkok’s most enthralling mosques.

Each one offers a unique narrative and a tranquil retreat from the city’s vibrant pulse.

TONSON MOSQUE

Nestled in the heart of Thonburi, the Tonson Mosque is Bangkok’s oldest Sunni mosque, with roots stretching back over 400 years to the Ayutthaya period.

Originally a wooden house on stilts with plaited bamboo walls and a thatched roof, the mosque has been rebuilt over time.

Today, it’s an architectural gem with a light grey facade, a striking green dome, and symmetrical towers.

Elegant arches, green-framed windows, and golden accents highlight its historical charm and contemporary elegance, making it a serene and visually captivating landmark amidst lush greenery.

The mosque’s dome, painted a rich, verdant green and topped with a golden finial, reflects Egyptian Islamic architectural style from the Islamic Hijri calendar year 800 (1397-1398 AD). Its unique preaching platform, the Minbar, features Javanese-style elements and a half-moon-shaped roof adorned with intricately carved, lacquered, and gilded gables.

One of the most striking features of Tonson Mosque is its first Mihrab, a niche indicating the direction of Mecca.

In Thonburi, Bangkok’s oldest Sunni mosque, Tonson Mosque evolved from bamboo-and-thatch to a Middle Eastern style with a carved teak plaque.//Photo: TAT

This Ayutthaya-style Mihrab is embellished with Kankhot (Vine Pattern) carvings, gable apexes, and finished with lacquer and gold inlay, along with inlaid glass.

A notable highlight is an exquisitely engraved teak plaque on the qibla wall, adorned with Arabic inscriptions, depictions of the Kaaba, and a map of the mosques in Mecca.

This plaque is believed to be from the old Ayutthaya mosque, adding historical depth to this revered place of worship.

Getting There

Tonson Mosque is approximately a 13-minute walk from Itsaraphap MRT station. It is open daily from 10am to 4pm.

SAIFEE MOSQUE

Nestled amidst the narrow passages on the west side of the Chao Phraya River lies a hidden gem of Bangkok’s diverse cultural heritage: the Saifee Mosque.

Stepping through its latched door, visitors are transported into the world of the Dawoodi Bohra Muslims, a community of Indian Shia Muslim merchants who have traded and settled here since the early days of Bangkok.

The Saifee Mosque stands as a symbol of the enduring legacy of the Abdulrahim and Mogul families.

The Abdulrahims, known for importing luxurious goods, and the Moguls, renowned for bringing high-quality silverware to the Thai nobility, have been integral to Bangkok’s trade with the royal court since the reign of King Rama IV.

Architecturally, the Saifee Mosque is a unique blend of half-concrete and half-wood Gothic-style design, reminiscent of Indian mosques with its rectangular box shape.

Saifee Mosque blends Gothic-style concrete and wood, with a marble floor from Ananta Samakhom Hall and vibrant stained glass.//Photo: TAT

The front of the mosque features a marble floor repurposed from the Ananta Samakhom Throne Hall during a significant renovation.

The second floor, made of wood, is adorned with vibrant stained glass, adding a touch of colour and light to the space.

Unlike many traditional mosques, Saifee Mosque does not have a minbar (the pulpit from which sermons are delivered) or a minaret. This distinctive characteristic sets it apart, offering a unique experience for visitors and worshippers alike.

Exploring Saifee Mosque provides a fascinating glimpse into the rich history and cultural heritage of the Dawoodi Bohra community in Bangkok, making it a must-visit destination for those seeking to uncover the hidden stories of this vibrant city.

Getting There

Saifee Mosque is located on Soi Somdet Chao Phraya 5, about an 18-minute walk from the Khlong San BTS station. Alternatively, you can take a ferry from Ratchawong Pier (Chinatown) to Tha Din Daeng Pier – the mosque is just a stone’s throw away.

BANG O MOSQUE

Bang O Mosque, once a humble raft house along the Chao Phraya River, now stands proudly on solid ground, showcasing a fascinating blend of architectural styles.

The main structure, constructed with bricks and mortar, follows a Renaissance style with symmetry and proportional geometry, enhanced by elaborate Baroque art adorning the gable. Decorative stuccos embellish the exterior, adding to its visual appeal.

The mosque’s twin adhan towers feature green domes influenced by Mughal art, blending Persian, Indian, and Islamic aesthetics.

These domes draw inspiration from Hindu lotus patterns and Arabian water vessels, creating a unique fusion of cultural elements.

Adjacent to the mosque, the Charoen Wittayakarn building stands out with its Western-style gingerbread wooden houses, intricately carved woodwork, and vibrant stained-glass decorations.

Bang O Mosque, once a raft house, now features Renaissance-style brickwork and Baroque art, with decorative stuccos enhancing its facade.//Photo: TAT

The gable is adorned with a Tughra, the stylized royal seal and signature of the Ottoman Sultan, adding a touch of regal history.

A recent addition to the site is the Bang O Mosque Centennial Memorial Building, which lies next to the riverbank.

This new structure, decorated with Islamic geometric patterns and tiles featuring Islamic art, seamlessly merges old and new elements, preserving the mosque’s historical essence while embracing modernity.

Getting There

Located in Soi Charan Sanitwong 86 Alley, Bang O Mosque is about 10-minute walk from Bang O MRT station (Exit 4). It’s open daily from 8am to 5pm.

BANG UTHIT MOSQUE

Bang Uthit Mosque on Charoen Krung Road, formerly “Surau Mae Bang,” highlights Thailand-Turkey ties with Ottoman coat of arms.//Photo: TAT

Nestled on Charoen Krung Road, Bang Uthit Mosque stands as a symbol to the enduring cultural connections between Thailand and Turkey.

Once known as “Surau Mae Bang”, this mosque has undergone significant restoration, thanks to its strong relationship with Turkey, as symbolised by the coat of arms of the Ottoman Empire above its entrance gate.

Originally built on timber foundations with bricks and mortar, the mosque has been transformed with modern enhancements.

A new minaret now towers beside a pavilion, replacing the old wooden structure. Inside, a mezzanine provides a designated prayer area for women, while a marble mihrab and a raised marble minbar add to the mosque’s refined interior.

The walls and ceilings are adorned with hand-drawn Arabesques, featuring the intricate geometric shapes, animals, flowers, leaves, and twisting branches characteristic of Islamic art.

These elements infuse the mosque with a distinctive Turkish artistic flair, making it a unique architectural gem in Bangkok.

The recent renovations and Turkish artistic influences make Bang Uthit Mosque not just a place of worship, but a vibrant symbol of cultural collaboration and heritage, offering visitors a unique glimpse into the rich heritage of Bangkok’s Islamic history.

Getting There

From Saphan Taksin BTS station, visitors can take a free shuttle boat to Asiatique Pier. Bang Uthit Mosque is just a short walk from the riverside open-air shopping mall, Asiatique The Riverfront. The mosque is open daily from 5am to 9pm.

BAN TUK DIN MOSQUE

Perched in the heart of the Tuk Din community near Dinso Road, the Ban Tuk Din Mosque stands as a beacon of resilience and tradition.

Rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1982, the mosque now features a pristine white exterior, crowned with a dome on a circular base adorned with a crescent moon finial. A taller dome on a square base graces the minaret, offering visitors a panoramic view of Bangkok.

The mosque is named after the Tuk Din community, renowned for its traditional Thai pencil and paper production during the Ayutthaya period. Dinso Road, where the mosque is located, was constructed during the reign of King Chulalongkorn.

Originally a modest Madrasah, the Ban Tuk Din Mosque primarily served descendants of Muslims from Pattani who studied Islam and the Quran.

Over time, it evolved into a prominent mosque closely associated with the nearby Chakraphong Mosque.

Ban Tuk Din Mosque, rebuilt after a 1982 fire, features a white exterior, crescent-adorned dome, and panoramic minaret view.//Photo: TAT

The Muslims of Bang Lamphu, as the local community is known, are celebrated for their expertise in goldsmithing and culinary arts.

Their succulent skewers, flavorful curry noodles, and refreshing salads are widely praised and offer a delightful culinary experience for visitors.

Ban Tuk Din Mosque, with its rich history and vibrant community, provides a unique glimpse into the cultural tapestry of Bangkok’s Islamic heritage, making it a must-visit for those exploring the city’s diverse religious landmarks.

Getting There

Ban Tuk Din Mosque is located on Ratchadamnoen Klang Avenue, just a minute’s walk from Khaosan Road – Bangkok’s backpacker and tourist district. It is also a short tuk-tuk ride from Sanamchai MRT station.

To obtain a copy of “Mosque Tour – The Way of Life, Culture, and Experience,” visit the TAT website at https://tourismproduct.tourismthailand.org/en/3d-flip-book/mosquetouren/

By ThaiPBS World Feature Desk